Yes mostly mini computers come with Windows 11 and yeah, other tools are usually a bit more limited.

Operating System
Pre-installed Windows: a lot of mini PCs people buy from brands like Beelink, Minisforum, or Geekom arrive with a fully activated Windows 11 Home or Pro, depending on the model.
Barebone Exceptions: some systems are sold as “barebone”. In that case, there’s no hard drive and no RAM, so you basically need to pick up those parts and then install the OS yourself.

Included Software
Drivers: crucial hardware drivers are typically pre-installed right out of the box.
Microsoft Office: standard Office is rarely included. More often you’ll see a trial version, or you’ll get the web based Microsoft 365 option.
Antivirus: Windows Defender is already there. Some manufacturers also add short term trials of third party antivirus tools, like McAfee or Norton.
Productivity Tools: you mostly get the normal Windows 11 apps (like Notepad, Paint, and Mail). If you want premium productivity software, that usually means extra payment, and a separate install later.

For gaming, I d go more often with the AMD Ryzen 7 7445HS rather than the Intel Core i5-13420H, like in most real situations.

The Ryzen 7 7445HS has more cores and threads, which can help when games are trying to juggle more things at once, plus multitasking , streaming, and those random background processes that never really stop. It usually also lands with better multi core muscle, so it feels like the more steady option for heavier chores beyond just gaming.

That said, game speed isn’t only the CPU, it depends a ton on the graphics card, aka GPU. If both laptops or rigs are using the same GPU, then yeah the Ryzen 7 7445HS will typically come out ahead for overall performance, and it should feel better over time too. But if one system has a noticeably stronger GPU, then even an i5-13420H setup can beat a Ryzen system that’s paired with a weaker graphics card.

If you paste the full specs for both builds, especially the GPU, the RAM layout (how much and speed), and the cooling setup, I can give you a much more solid call instead of a “generally yes/no” kind of answer.

Based on the symptoms you described, I would not ignore this issue—especially on a 4-year-old Surface Laptop 3.

One of the most common causes of a trackpad lifting or no longer sitting flush with the palm rest is battery swelling. As lithium-ion batteries age, they can sometimes expand and put pressure on components above them, including the trackpad and keyboard deck. The fact that the gap has gradually become more noticeable over several weeks, despite no drops or physical damage, is consistent with that possibility.

While there are other potential causes (such as a loose mounting bracket, adhesive failure, or chassis distortion), battery swelling should be ruled out first because it can present a safety risk if left unaddressed.

My recommendation would be:

Back up any important data as soon as possible.
Inspect the laptop for other signs of swelling, such as keyboard bulging, an uneven bottom cover, or difficulty closing the lid.
Avoid pressing the trackpad back into place.
Consider limiting use of the device until it can be inspected.
Contact Microsoft Support or a qualified repair technician to have the battery and internal components checked.

Even if the trackpad is still functioning normally, the physical separation itself is a sign that something inside may be exerting pressure where it shouldn’t. Given the age of the device and the gradual progression of the issue, I’d recommend having it evaluated sooner rather than later.

Changing your Wi-Fi name (SSID) is usually straightforward, though the exact steps depend on your router model.

Here’s how I typically do it:

1. Connect to the router using Wi-Fi or an Ethernet cable.
2. Open a web browser and enter the router’s IP address (commonly 192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1, or the address listed on the router label).
3. Log in with the router’s administrator username and password.
4. Navigate to the Wireless, Wi-Fi, or WLAN settings section.
5. Locate the field labeled “SSID,” “Network Name,” or “Wi-Fi Name.”
6. Enter the new Wi-Fi name you want to use.
7. Save or apply the changes.
8. Reconnect your devices using the updated network name.

If your router supports both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands, you may see separate SSID settings for each band.

If you’re unsure how to access the settings page, sharing your router’s brand and model number can help identify the exact steps.

From what I’ve seen, Roblox Error Code 285 is usually a connection-related disconnect rather than a problem with your account.

I’d start with the simple stuff first: close Roblox completely, restart your device, and make sure your internet connection is stable. If you’re using a VPN, try turning it off, since Roblox can sometimes have issues with VPN connections.

If the error only happens in one specific game, there’s a good chance the issue is on that game’s side rather than yours. On the other hand, if you’re getting it across multiple experiences, it may be worth reinstalling Roblox or checking whether your firewall/antivirus is interfering with the connection.

I’ve also seen cases where the error disappears on its own after a while because it was caused by a temporary server issue.

A couple of questions:

What device are you playing on?
Does the error happen in every Roblox game or just one particular experience?

That information would help narrow down the cause.